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Virtual Vacation: Dancing Our Way Through Bali, Day 25

July 4, 2013 By Laura Davis 14 Comments · · · · · · Read & Respond

On our way to the waterfall today, our last hike of the trip, Surya pointed out this leaf, kasa, or as it called it, “traditional Balinese toilet paper.” When we stroked the incredibly soft underside of the leaf, we could easily see why.

Along the path, we came across this dead green snake. Judy said it’s the most poisonous snake it Bali—one that she has rarely seen. Without treatment, you have about four hours after it bites you to live.

We came across several small booths right by the side of the trail by enterprising locals selling small packets of spice: saffron, nutmeg, curry, coriander, galangal, anise, cardamom, fresh vanilla pods, and much more. Our band of hikers happily bought up these useful souvenirs to take home.

Photo credit: Tawnya Sargent

The waterfall, when we finally reached it, was not the same one I saw yesterday, though the two are close by. Several of us, feeling hardy, braved the very forceful water of the waterfall and got as close as possibly could, backing in and holding hands to keep from being knocked over by the intensity of the flow behind us:

When we climbed out, it was raining, but what difference did it make? We were already wet—and exhilarated. The downpour that followed soaked us on the way home, but I don’t think any of minded the unseasonable rain. Just before we got back to the turn-off to Puri Lumbung, we looked down a hillside off the road and saw some kids jammed into an bale getting a music lesson, playing gamelan. Surya said we could go down there, so several of us hiked down to get a closer look. It was a rehearsal of a local youth orchestra, preparing for tomorrow’s cremation of a grandmother who died in Munduk Village. “They’re kind of like a Balinese marching band,” he said. “They’ll be in the procession with the body.”

Photo credit: Tawnya Sargent

Photo credit: Tawnya Sargent

Photo credit: Tawnya Sargent

Photo credit: Tawnya Sargent

We are actually going to the cremation tomorrow. When Surya told us that we could watch this most significant rite of passage in the Balinese world of rituals and ceremonies, it definitely creeped out some members of our group—not so much the idea of being around death or a dead body, but the worry that we’d be horribly gauche Western tourists gate-crashing a funeral. Surya explained that in Bali, cremation is a cause for celebration because the soul is liberated, and the more people that attend the cremation, the more honor is heaped on the family. That goes for tourists (even with cameras). Some wealthy families even advertise their cremations so that more people will come. There are aspects of the rites surrounding death that are private (like the washing of the body), but the march to the cremation grounds—and the cremation itself is a rowdy, celebratory public affair. Surya and Judy told us to wear our sarongs and temple scarves out of respect, and to be ready to go at 9:45 tomorrow morning—I can’t think of a more dramatic way to spend our last day in Bali.

The children of Munduk are performing for us tonight. And this afternoon, we were invited to watch their rehearsal in the oven air pavilion where we’ve had early morning yoga with Karyn. The children seemed to range in age from six to older teenagers.

This is their teacher, Nyoman:

 And here are the kids being put through their paces:

I was especially taken with this little guy. He was the youngest, just six years old:

 

When the teenaged girls weren’t dancing, they sat on the side of the bale whispering and talking like teenage girls everywhere.

The teachers are very hands on with the children, continually correcting their posture, their arm position, their eye position, and their steps. To us as Westerners, the corrections at times seemed rough—almost slapping the children into the right positions. Balinese dance is extremely precise and that showed in the rehearsal. The older girls wore tight corset-like things around their waists to simulate the tight costumes they would be wearing tonight.

After we’d watched and photographed the children for forty minutes, Nyoman, the teacher, invited Vanya from our group, who’d taken a private dance lesson with him yesterday, to get up and dance with him for the group—and for us. She was reluctant, much as her third graders back at home might be if asked to perform. But eventually she acquiesced. He dressed her in sarong and a scarf and up she went.

Now the tables were turned. The students were clapping for Vanya and laughing and taking her picture with their cell phones. When she was done dancing with Nyoman, the children roared with laugher and applause.

After the dance class, we had our final writing class of the retreat and afterwards, we all gathered together for another lovely family-style dinner. Judy, whose been ordering vegetarian dinners for us every night since we’ve been here, surprised us with perfectly cooked tuna. It was delicious! And the dessert merited seconds as well—some variety of cooked banana, a palm sugar syrup, topped by coconut milk.

We piled into the Wantilan, the community meeting room we’d been using for our writing classes. It was time for the community performance to begin. The gamelan musicians—who have traveled to the US and France to teach—were a lively, talented group of excellent musicians:

It was great to be so close up to the dancers—many of whom we’d seen rehearse in the afternoon. In costume and with make-up they were transformed. I was captivated by their precise movements and the complete absence of expression on their face—their facial muscles held absolutely still except for the positioning of the head and the dramatic movements of the eyes.

It was a great night….our second to last in Bali. Tomorrow, after the cremation, our thoughts will turn to the transition home.

Filed Under: Bali, The Virtual Vacation Tagged With: Bali, travel, travel adventure, write travel transform, writing retreat, writing workshop

« Previous Post: Virtual Vacation: Harvest, Day 24
Next Post: Virtual Vacation: Sending the Spirit Home, Bali Day 26 »

Comments

  1. Hollye Dexter says

    July 4, 2013 at 8:50 am

    What a breathtaking trip. Wow wow wow!
    Stunning pictures, beautiful people, amazing experiences!
    So happy for you, Laura.

    Reply
  2. Charlene Robinson says

    July 4, 2013 at 9:11 am

    Amazing blog! I feel as though I can smell the air, taste the food etc and have learned so much about Balinese culture. I hope you also blog on future trips! Very enjoyable!!!

    Reply
  3. Mary Bucklew says

    July 4, 2013 at 9:52 am

    AHHHHmazing… the entire travelogue! How on earth did any of you find time to WRITE????

    Reply
    • Laura Davis says

      July 7, 2013 at 8:51 pm

      Well this is much more of a cultural tour of Bali…with writing and yoga to help digest the experience. If people want an in-depth writing retreat, i recommend they come to a different retreat with me. But why go halfway around the world to one of the most magical cultures in the world if you don’t get out an experience it?

      I wrote my posts in writing class when my students were working on other things–and I had a lot of late nights getting it done, but it was worth it!

      Reply
  4. Urmila says

    July 4, 2013 at 11:13 am

    Your travel blog is stunning Laura. I find myself waiting for the next addition as some people look forward to the next segment of a TV program. The story is fresh and filled with the amazement of each new moment. The photos are fun to see.

    Reply
  5. Deb Mansell says

    July 4, 2013 at 6:04 pm

    Thank you Laura for sharing your travels with us, to a place so beautiful that I can only dream of, you have brought it to life for me .

    Reply
  6. Linda says

    July 4, 2013 at 7:57 pm

    Yes, thank you, Laura. I’ve loved seeing Bali through your eyes.
    I am fascinated with such young ones learning their native dance…reminds me of all our kids here at home learning dance or piano…or soccer at such young ages. So interesting to see that we all do this, around the globe. I loved their costumes and their dramatic eyes as you said. And I’m so glad to see this traditional art form carried on.

    Reply
  7. Annette Naber says

    July 4, 2013 at 8:59 pm

    I truly enjoyed reading your blog, Laura. It was like re-visiting Bali all over again. Thank you for taking the time every day to write and keep us informed and vicariously experiencing this trip thru your eyes.
    Can’t wait to see you in Scotland.

    Reply
  8. Bobbie Anne says

    July 5, 2013 at 3:53 am

    Thank you for your travel posts. I love the pictures, especially the children and the dance rehearsal. It seems like I am there with you. And in a way I am in spirit. I’m grateful that I am sharing in your Bali trip with you.

    Reply
  9. Terry Gibson says

    July 5, 2013 at 11:57 am

    I love this blog! Now I wish everyone safe travel home–or to whichever port you blow….Wait. There’s the flap of many wings outside my window! Whomever could it be? “Thar she blows, Helloooo.” 🙂

    Reply
  10. Becky Wecks says

    July 8, 2013 at 9:03 pm

    This has been a great travel diary Laura. I’ve enjoyed each entry. But I must admit, my favorite part has been to see your face each day – so delighted and so enjoying your experience. You inspire me to experience everything more fully, even the every-day experiences right here at home. Thank you.

    Reply
    • Laura Davis says

      July 8, 2013 at 9:08 pm

      I’ve inspired myself too. I’d like to live life as an adventure when I’m home too! Isn’t that always the challenge?

      Reply
  11. Dharma says

    September 20, 2013 at 7:01 am

    seem you have a wonderful vacation in Bali..

    Reply
    • Laura Davis says

      September 20, 2013 at 7:18 am

      Yes, Dharma, we have a great time every year….

      Reply

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Like this Virtual Vacation?

You can also read about Laura’s travels to:

Peru 2017

In which Laura and Karyn and 18 writers explore Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley of Peru.

Serbia 2017

In which Laura leads a workshop at the Incest Trauma Center.

Greece 2016

In which Laura explores the wonders of Crete and Santorini with a wide-eyed group of Write, Travel, Transform adventurers.

Vietnam 2015/16

In which Laura, who grew up during the Vietnam War, goes to Southeast Asia and finds out what Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia are really like today.

Commonweal 2015

A journey toward healing loss and grief in a magnificent Northern California setting.

Scotland 2015

In which Laura returns to Scotland with a new group for another jaunt through the wonders of the Scottish Highlands.

Scotland 2013

In which Laura attends the Edinburgh theatre festival and leads 14 writers to a magical retreat in the highlands of Northern Scotland.

Bali 2013

In which Laura visits Australia, and spends three weeks diving, exploring, and teaching in three regions of Bali.

Florida 2014

A journey into old age in America in which Laura brings her 86-year-old mother to Florida so she can see her last surviving sister one final time.

Mexico 2014

In which Laura attends the San Miguel Writer’s Conference and explores the artistic towns around Patzcuaro.

About Laura Davis

In the course of my career as a communicator, I have also worked as a columnist, talk show host, radio reporter, radio producer, blogger, editor, and speaker. Words have always been at the core of my work and my self-expression. Read More . . .

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Retreating with Laura: Julie Sheehan

Julie Sheehan

For many years I put off my dream of writing and traveling. I told myself the kids were too little, my husband could never survive without me, that I couldn't possibly be so selfish. I couldn't imagine realistically stepping out of all of my responsibilities and roles. Then I started attending Laura’s summer retreat at Commonweal in northern California and that became an annual gift to myself for the next three years.

When the opportunity to travel with Laura internationally came up, my Land of Later mentality said I could never pull it off. But when my friend got cancer at age 39, I decided to stop taking life and it's endless opportunities to grow, live, nurture and explore myself for granted.

My children were 6 and 9 when I began allowing myself the luxurious pleasure of taking 10 days to two weeks each year to travel abroad with Laura, to spend time with like minded, soul searching people who share a passion for living and writing, to have all my meals prepared for me, to have the space and freedom to stretch out of my cage and check in with who I am, what I want, and how best to get there.

Laura is a skilled and nurturing teacher who encourages her students to take risks, to grow as human beings, and to be vulnerable. She has provided me with a forum where I can gain all my CEUs and learn techniques on how to become a more engaging writer, all while completing yearly emotional rehab.

I return home from each of Laura’s trip a little wiser, a little more open, and a lot more compassionate. I greet my family, friends and daily life with sparkly, clean energy and a renewed patience, brought about by way of re-writing old stories that I needed to let go of. I come home ready to move forward in my life.

A retreat with Laura Davis is one of the best gifts I ever received and gave myself. It took many years to realize that I was worth the time and financial investment, but now there is no looking back.

Julie Sheehan, Livermore California

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