What I Saw Today

Today was a 12+ mile day. There was rain in the forecast, so we all had our raingear handy, but it ended up being a cool, and at times sunny day, perfect hiking weather. At first, there were lots and lots of people on the trail, everyone greeting each other with a friendly, “Buen Camino!” But as the day went on, there were fewer fellow pilgrims. By the time late afternoon rolled around, we were walking alone. Because we have a set hotel to go to each night, as opposed to the pilgrims who don’t have a bed reserved and hope to find a cot in an aubergue (group hostel) for the night, we can take our time. And we do! I was in the final three arriving at our hotel tonight—11+ hours after we started walking.

We made lots of stops today—little ones to notice the light through the trees, a particularly beautiful church, a vibrant garden, to gawk at pigs or goats or cows, to greet fellow pilgrims and fall into an easy conversation. We also made several longer stops—one for “second breakfast” at a restaurant along the Way, one at a sacred archeological site, a hilltop fortress, where we wrote and did art, one for a long lunch stop, and one at a park where Brenda loves to sketch.

I love to teach my writing students is about the importance of observation and gathering sensory details, especially unusual, quirky details. Taking the time to jot down the sights, sounds, tastes, and smells of a place enable a writer to compose more vivid writing later. So today, in practicing what I was preaching, I spent a few hours stopping to pull out the little notebook I always carry to take note of what I see (I decided to focus on the visual today). Here are some of the things I noticed:

Two different couples holding hands as they walked the Camino.

A man on a very loud Facetime call (in Spanish) as he continued walking.

Black slugs on the ground. Once I noticed one, I saw ten in a row.

Three young men walking by with music playing.

People taking pictures with selfie sticks off the trail.

A man with tight abs, wearing a bright yellow, green backpack smoking a cigarette as he walked.

Toilet paper hanging on a bush—someone obviously didn’t have a potty pack or a hip, multi-colored pee square to use.

Picnic tables by the side of the path under drooping willow trees.

A woman eating a perfect peach.

A bright pink camouflage-colored backpack.

Hiking pants with a tight elastic butt panel…ooh la la! I saw a few of those.

A woman with skin-tight pink leggings with black underwear showing through from underneath.

A big, completely relaxed dog sprawled out in the middle of the road.

Three of hugest pink pigs I’ve ever seen.

A man with a long white pole sticking out of his pocket. After puzzling over it for a long time, I finally realized it was a collapsible selfie stick.

Lots of cows, tractors and farm equipment.

A farmer and her husband sitting out in their field as the sun began to set.

A pear orchard and a raspberry patch.

Giant metal ant sculptures in a grassy yard.

Many vegetable gardens, one particularly notable for its huge cabbages and giant kale.

Scroll through today’s photo album for more of what we saw (and thanks to Kendra Webster for the great photo editing lesson over lunch). The description of the day continues in the captions under the photographs.

A man carrying two backpacks, one black, one orange, the black one on his back like a normal backpack, and the other at his side, and his wife following behind carrying only a small purse and her water bottle. I smiled at her as she passed and indicated her husband and said, “That’s love!” She smiled back at me, a big grin and responded, “I know!”
What I love so much about the Camino is that we walk through all kinds of terrain. We’re actually walking across a country! This was an intersection sign we passed.
Graffiti
I just loved this door and Gonzar, the little village it was in
More of Gonzar
This was something I was so curious about. Why was this brick riddled with tiny little holes. I found out it was just as strong as an ordinary brick, but much lighter.
We walked through towns, over bridges, through farms, villages and lots of cornfields. One of the lists I’ve asked my students to keep is a list of what they’re curious about. Writers, especially travel writers, need to follow their curiosity and ask questions. When I saw field upon field of corn (including the one I peed in), it all looked ripe to me. I wanted to know, “When is the harvest?” Nan, who’s in our group and is a farmer, said, “You have to wait until the tassels turn reddish-brown.”
You never know what you will find on the Camino trail markers
It was just a gorgeous, stunning day of vista after vista
So many textures…
Toilet art
A very special stop today—Castro de Castomayor, built in the Iron Age, 2,400 years ago. What an amazing place.
We spent an hour there. First, we learned about the history from Andre, who gave a great talk.
Then we spent the next 45 minutes writing, painting or sketching, our choice.

Pilgrims crossing the walls of the archeological site at Castro de Castromaior in Portomarin, Spain

Here we are on our way out, back to the main trail
A mausoleum right on the Camino with many crypts and lots of fake flowers
Loved this map of the sky
Moo!
Brenda, Cary, and I stayed behind to do one more painting session while the rest of the group went on to our hotel. For the last several miles it was just the three of us on the trail with an occasional car or motorcycle going by. Here we are on the home stretch to meet the rest of our crew and have dinner. It was 7:30 pm and just starting to get dark. The sky was magnificent. it was a wonderful time to be walking.
This is what we returned to–some very happy pilgrims enjoying a glass of wine after a long, satisfying day on our feet. I took a long, hot shower and changed my clothes and pretty much devoured dinner. I was hungry!
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